יום חמישי, דצמבר 28, 2006

Doing Tracks in New Zealand...

As you all probably understood from our last post (did you notice that Izick participate in the writing also? It's about time) New Zealand is the homeland of the great walks.
If someone thinks of coming to New Zealand, he should think first if he can keep up with all the tracks here, and most of all carry a 10 kilo bag on his back. As the Kiwi's says in the brochures, first practice at home for about 1 month, carrying a 10 kilo bag and walk on uneven track and climbing for about 3 hours straight.

Well, as you can see, I passed the test. After returning from the Milford track we rested for one day only, and went on another track, the Kepler Track. A 63 Kilometer track. It took us 3 days to finish the track.
The first day was a 1.5 hour walk in the bush, like every track here, since the track starts at sea level the plantation is mostly trees. As you climb the plantation becomes shorter. After crossing the bush line we climb for about 3 hours and then we reached the most beautiful views. We saw Te Aneue lake from above and all the beautiful mountains were covered with snow. Not far from this point we got to the first Hut.

From Kepler Trek




From Kepler Trek



The next day started a little bit disappointment, since the weather didn't seem so good. However, if there is one thing I learned in New Zealand, don't let the weather dictate your day. So, me and Izick started our climb to the top, and as we walk the clouds become closer to us and at some point we were above them and then after 10 minutes, all the clouds were gone and we had the most beautiful day ever in New Zealand. The ranger told us later on the day that this was the most beautiful day in the Fiorland area and we couldn't ask for more beautiful day. And it really was.

From Kepler Trek



Most of the day, we walk along the alpine, on a very long ridge. At some point I had a little bit of a crises, since there was a snow on the track and the path to walk on was very narrow and we were just on the cliff. Fortunately enough Izick came to my rescue, and help me cross all those difficult walks. Izick told me to think of it as an adventure, since we got to walk on the snow, but at this point I don't see it like that.


From Kepler Trek


The alpine section was quite long and the views were amazing. After walking for about 7 hours we reached the way down. Now, I can tell you that I can do any climb you will tell me, but, please don't let me go down. The way down was so difficult and my feet were aching. There were 87 zigzags on the way down, believe me that after that you can't feel your knees.


From Kepler Trek



Finally after 10 hours walk I reached the Hut, not before Izick came to help me at the last 15 minutes of my walk.
The last day was quite easy, but when your feet hearts, even the easy walk doesn't seems so easy.


From Kepler Trek



When we return to the city it was Christmas eve. In our backpackers they didn't do anything spacial so after some dinner I just went to bed to rest. Izick, on the other hand celebrate to the night. Our hosts, Bob and maxine, brought some wine a sponge cake, and celebrate Christmas with izick and 2 girls from quebec (Canada).

Now after 4 days rest, we are ready to go on another track, The Ruteburn Track and the Grinstone track. We are doing the 2 together, since the track is not circular and we want to save money on transportation.
I relay hope I'll make it....

יום רביעי, דצמבר 27, 2006

Milford Trek


"…The Milford Track (53.5 Kilometers) is in the heart of spectacular Fiordland National Park, part of South west New Zealand world Heritage Area.
The Track starts at the head of lake Te Anau and finished and Milford Sound."



As you all already knows, we went on this trek by pure luck. However, this trek started a day before, when we tried to figure out what we should put in our bag. For all of you who traveled in South America or Nepal, including us, when you travel in New Zealand there is no "sucker" who will carry your bags. So we thought of every gram we put in our bags.
Anyhow, it felt like I'm carrying all of my original 20 kilos I took when I left Israel.

At the first day, we drove ourselves to the pick up point of the track – Te Anau Down. From there we had a 1.5 hour cruise on a Catamaran to the beginning of the track.
From that point we started to count the 53.5 Kilometers we had to accomplished in 4 days.

I must mention that the track can be done in 3 days, but since this is one of the "great walks" of New Zealand, and since the Milford is the most popular one, so they (the DOC – Department of Conservation, like KaKaL in Israel) decided that you must do it in 4 days, and make more money for each night you sleep in one of their Huts (40$nz each).

The first day was the most ridiculous in his kilometric (5 km), but it gave me a good idea how it feels to carry a 10 kilos bag and walking with it.

We got to the hut after 1 hour and 15 minutes (we were the first ones in the hut!!!), it was only about 14:00, and since the days in New Zealand are very long (it gets dark only at 22:00), we had quite a lot of time to spend in the hut. Quickly enough, we found more Israeli people on the track (you can find them everywhere, especially in Te Anau). They were a nice French couple (Michel and Sandra) that lived in Israel. Later on, more people arrived on the late boat so another young Israeli couple arrived (Liran and Lina).

At each hut there is a ranger that is in charge of the hut. Those ranger are quite a unique persons (think of someone that needs to stay all by himself in the middle of nowhere and speak only once a day for about 1/2 an hour, telling the same things to different people). You can't imagine how much they speak and most of what they say you can't understand since the Kiwi's English in horrible. They have all kind of special words that we don’t know, like, do you know what is a billy?, No?, so did we at the time, well, it's a pot to boil water like "FINGAN", which looks like a small bucket. And the worst thing is that they pronounce the 'e' and 'i' different than what the American English do. So believe me, it's really hard to understand them. However, the most annoying thing is that they are trying to be funny just when you are the most tiered and just want to be left alone.

Since the first day was very short, the ranger at the Clinton Hut (each hut has a name) took us on a nature walk at about 17:00. I couldn't stand him for more then 15 minutes ,so I just left. Izick stayed until the end and he seems to like it.
When izick came back, we made a dinner like every other night at the huts. Every day we had the same thing: pasta with tomatoes sauce (after 3 nights, izick asked if we can have a break from pasta for the next week). I must say, it's very convenient to have a warm hut to sleep in (instead of tenting with sleeping bags) and also to have normal gas to cook your dinner on (for that reasons I can give extra points to New Zealand and the DOC).
Each dinner time we had a visit from the ranger, giving us some pep talk about the weather, the walk we are about to have the next day, rules that we need to obey while we stay at the hut, and also about the nature (at this point he lost me, but izick, on the other hand, seems to be quit interested).

At the first day we had another encounter with the ranger. When it became dark, at about 22:00, he took us on a short walk near our hut to see some glowing worms. This was amazing. Unfortunately this is something we can't take a picture of, but I can just tell you that it looks like Christmas lights. Quite an amazing thing.



Second Day:
We woke up at 6:30 and were on our way at about 7:30 (same routine every day).
On the second day we walked for about 16.5 km (5 hours).
The route on the second day was quite flat and we walked in the forest (it called bush walk in new Zealand) passing some waterfalls and lakes.
However, after a 4 hours walk I just couldn't bare carrying my bag and it felt like carrying stones.
When we got to the hut, it seems that izick didn't had enough, so he went climbing with the young couple to the pass and returned (something that we were about to do the next day (3 hours walk!)). If you ask him why he did it, he will probably say, to see the view while it's clear and the weather is fine. (and he was right, since on the next 2 days we had lots of rain).

Third Day:
This day was the hardest of them all, since we had to climb for 2 hours 575 meter and then descend for 4 hours 1000 meter.
The climb was ok, since all I could think of was the way down (the ranger worn us, the day before that people usually think that if they finish the climb than the way down is a piece of cake, and they are not mentally ready for the descend).
At the pass, there were a place, right at the edge of the cliff, that you can look down and see our next stop, just a 12 seconds drop, as you can imagine, we didn't pick that way, even though it's looks a lot shorter.



It was frizzing cold at the top, the New Zealand's alpine weather. Luckily enough, we had a shelter to rest in and also a gas cooker to make some hot drink (I really needed it). After a 1/2 hour rest we left the shelter and started our way down. From here on it was all down hill like they say. It took us about 4 hours just to descend, and believe me it was hard, my knees were aching and it seems like it will never ends.
When we got to the ground level it still wasn't the end of it. From that point on, we had a choice to make, continue on to the Dumpling Hut or going on a side trip to Sutherland falls. As you may already guess, I went to the hut and izick went to see the falls.


Izick : the falls was quite amazing. It's 580 meter tall, falling in 3 cascades, with a large volumes of water. The falls are new Zealand highest falls and the sixth highest falls in the world. The only problem was that the day was very very wet with lots and lots of rain, so I was socking wet and very cold. On top of that, my camera got wet and I had to protect it inside the coat the whole time and just take it out briefly for taking pictures. The results was that the only pictures I got from the falls weren't very good. (for those of you who know the fumaca falls in lencios, brazil, this falls were much more impressive and with far more water in them…).

Navit: At total it took me 7 hours to finished those 14 km.
I forgot to add that this walk was all in the rain and it didn't stopped raining until the next day at about 11:00, so also the last day was wet (lucky us…)

Last day:
This last day was much easier for me after I had a 3 day practice in carrying my bag and walking at the same time. In addition, the route was quite flat, but still I had lots of pain in my feet and legs (I just got used to it).
At the last day we saw a lot of new fresh falls that were created due to the heavy rain. It was quite amazing. In addition, we saw some amazing tree avalanche. Sometimes when a tree from the top of the mountain collapse it can take down with him all the trees up to the last one beneath him. When you see that kind of avalanche (after it happened, I can't even think how it's like when it really happens) you think that some kind of a disaster happened at that area.
There was a point at the last day that I walked by myself, and at that point there was a sign saying "Don't stop, avalanche warning", anyone who knows me and how scarred I am, probably guessed that I just run the whole way, and this is what I did. Izick was quit amused when he heard about it.
At the last 1/2 hour of the trek, I was alone. Since Izick already passed me, the walkie talkie that we bought in Hong King come in quite handy. Just as izick reached the end of the route, he talked with me on the walkie talkie and then he surprised me, by coming back and helping me with the bag, like a true gentleman.
When I got to the end on the trek, the Sandfly point, I had such a good feeling that I passed it and it was all over.


Izick: I was very proud of Navit for finishing that track without any special problems. Even though that in times, the track was really hard on her, she was brave enough to keep on going and never give up until the end. You must keep in mind that this track was navit first track, in which she had to carry her own bag all the way through the track (in south America, we had someone who carry our bags (either a donkey or a porter) on the tracks).
For myself, it quite a unique experience, being the first track in new Zealand. New Zealand nature life is very beautiful with lots of green forest, lakes, river, water falls and snowy mountains. I also find the huts system very good and comfortable, which make your life a lot easier and safer. The draw point of the system is that the huts are very expensive, even in new Zealand terms.
Overall, I find that new Zealand is a paradise for those seeking to walk they way across the country. Everything is well organized, safe and efficient. This is also the reason why the tracks are quite crowded and you sometimes might think you walking in a group. You certainly don't get the feeling of remoteness you get when you are doing a track in south America.
A part from that, I am not sure that we are the kind of people that will spend all of their time in new Zealand trekking, but we will sure try and do some of the most interesting ones!
Anyhow, it's real refreshing to walk in the nature for a couple of days, instead of sitting in the office all day and download movies all night.

יום חמישי, דצמבר 21, 2006

"…NZ is one of the most scenic and profoundly beautiful places anyone could hope to explore, It also offer a thrilling abundance of outdoor activities, from white-water rafting down stony-bottomed rivers and bungee jumping into yawing gorges to kayaking on undisturbed waterways and tubing through wild caves. To top it all off, the kiwis are famously engaging hosts who are rarely short of advice, friendliness and an irrepressible desire to show off their country." (Lonely planet, Australia & New Zealand on a shoestring)

Well, as the book says New Zealand is quit amazing place, but, still there is quite few annoying things I found in this "amazing" place, but, don't you worry, first I'm going to tell you all about our adventure in the south island and maybe in the end I will tell you all my thought about travelling in this country (or island, to be more accurate).

It all started in the biggest city in the south island, Christchurch.
We arrived to there after 7 days in Hong Kong straight to Jonney and Ronit's place.

Jonney & Ronit are 2 Israelis who decided to come and live in New Zealand after a good experience Jonney had on his trip when he was younger. Not long after working as a computer engineer, he decided that kiwis nature is not for him and decided to stay at home, take care of their new born child, and, in order to still feel Israeli, they opened a "home stay" for travels, mostly Israeli travellers and students.

They run a lovely home, worm and friendly and they offer lots of their time to all the travellers that come by and share all there knowledge with them.

We stayed in there house for a week, mostly because we didn't had any transportation and in the first few days we weren't sure if we are going to rent a car or buy one. As you already read in the last post, we bought a "new" Honda ascot and up until now it's worth the money we paid for it (lets hope we make it till the end).

The moment we paid for the car, we spend some more money, to buy food, tent and all kind of equipment for our 2 month stay in New Zealand. This is the advantage and also disadvantage in having a car on your trip, we keep on adding unnecessary equipment, that you can live without it (like in south America, where you have to carry everything you buy…).

Our first stop, and Izick first drive on the "wrong" side of the road, was to Akaroa. A beautiful French city.
On the way there we saw some beautiful views, green hills covered with lots of sheep and cows.

Now, I can tell you that this kind of views is not so unique and you see it everywhere you look here, and at some point it become predictable and also boring. It's kind of sad because you stop being impressed by beautiful nature, when in different situation you will be astound by it.

In Akaroa we stayed in a beautiful old house near the lake. Our Israeli friends, Gilad and Denis, invited us to that house after they arrived there the day before. The house was our own, without any other guest. As usual, we had a great dinner, which is one of our main attractions here in New Zealand, along with visiting the supermarket.

From there, we had a long drive (about 500 kilometres) to Mount Cook. On this day we were very fortunate, since the weather was amazing, like a normal summer day should be.

This is not something on the ordinary here is New Zealand, even though it's summer here. In New Zealand you need to be prepared to have 4 seasons in one day and even in one hour. Believe me, it's not easy and at some point we learned that rain, strong wind or snow can not stop our travelling.

We arrived at Mount Cook at about 17:00 straight to dinner (like I told you before).
We didn't do much, since we saved our energy to the next day.

On the next day, we were all prepared to do some real trekking like we planned all along, but the weather wasn't on our side. So we decided to do something short and we went to the "Sealy Tarns" (small part of the Muller Hut Route).

From New Zealand -...

From New Zealand -...

It started all nice and pretty, but shortly after 1 hour walk in normal weather it became raining and on top of it, as we climb higher the wind became stronger. At some point I thought that I'll be thrown down the mountain. So, since we a new to New Zealand we decide to go down and go back to the Backpacker's house. I said "new", because not long after we got down, we saw people starting this route on this weather, so, we realized that the next time, weather like this (which is not unusual and can start at any moment, even if the day started as a sunny warm day) can't stop our travelling if we want to do some trekking here.

I forgot to tell you all about our Backpacker's house in Mount Cook. Well, this YHA is not an ordinary YHA. The place look like an alpine hut, just like you see on the movies when people go to Switzerland to a sky resort. Pretty amazing and it ONLY cost 72$(220 NIS) (a lot of money, we still trying to get used to the high prices in New Zealand).

On our last day in Mount Cook, we went on another day walk, the Hoker track.
It's quit easy walk, passing 2 swing bridges on the way to see some glaciers on a lake.

From New Zealand -...

From Mount Cook we continued to Oamaru. There is not much to do there except seeing some penguins (yellow eyed penguin).

We really got to see some, but not a lot of people are as fortunate as we were. There is a lot of Penguin colony in south island, but as the New Zealand's says they are too "shay", so you probably won't see them. And if you have some spare money you can pay to see them, but still it doesn't insure you will see them, as they say, "They are too shay" (This is the New Zealand's explanation for every animal you will try to see, but fails).

From New Zealand -...

On Oamaru we slept in a HIT. It's an organization an Israeli person established. He gathered Christian New Zealand's people that like Jewish people and want to invite them to their house (for free or for a symbolic charge). Usually it includes long conversation about Jews and Jewish people.

We had great luck (which didn't last long), and met a great family, very worm hearted. We stayed at their house for 2 nights and then continued along the shore to Dunedin. On the way we stopped at Moraki boulders to see some perfect round rock that were created in the nature from underneath the sea, and you can see them at low tide.

As usually, in order to see this you need to pay, but as good Israeli people, we found the way to get to the beach and see them without paying anything, but it involved walking 1.7 kilometres to get there.

On the beach we meet our good old friend from Akaroa, Gilad and Denies.
From here we decided to continue together.

After hiring our good experience in the HIT, they wanted to try it also. So I stared looking the HIT book for places in Dunedin or near the area that will accept us all. It's not an easy task, but I did it and found a place 56 Kilometres from Dunedin, Milton.

This was a place I think none of us are going to forget. It all started when we meet the man of the house, David, he came to pick us up from the main road.

At first I thought he was a farmer, since he was covered with grass and his cloth were very "unique".

From New Zealand -...

When we got to the house it all came together, but it was too overwhelming for us.

I don't know how to describe this palace and the people, but there were a combination of the Amish people with the Hilly Billes people from the south (in America).

The only thing I cloud think of when we get there was how I'm getting out of there. Everyone (Izick, Gilad and Denies) try to tell me that it's not a nice thing to do after they invited us to their home. So we stayed there for the night.

On the Next day we were on our way to the big city, Dunedin.

In Dunedin we went to Cadbury chocolate Factory on a tour. It was quite disappointing, and all we saw was lots of machines and we didn't see or taste real chocolate.

From Dunedin we started the "Southern Scenic Route".

From New Zealand -...
It's a special route that follows the coast and has some great views and things to see on the way.

Our first stop on this way was Owaka (Sorry about the names, it's hard for us also, it's Maori). We slept in a place that reminds us all a military camp. After we settled down, we went to see some sea lions, after walking for about 2 hours in the strong winds along the beach, without seeing even one sea lion thinking they are "shay", we figured that this place should be called sea lion's cemetery, since all we saw was some dead ones that laid on the beach.

The next day we continued our drive. On the way we stopped to see some water falls, and we tried to see a cave, but after waiting 1 hour for the place to be opened (since it depends on the low tide in the sea) we were told that today the low wasn't enough and maybe we should come back tomorrow.

From New Zealand -...


From New Zealand -...

Our next stop was Invercargill. We slept in an amazing place called Living Space. It's a Hotel and extended stay apartment. It was all renovated in a 70's look. We had our own 2 bedroom apartment (for us and for Gilad and Denies). We had a movie theatre room, just for us and all kind of other gizmos; it wasn't the ordinary place you will usually find on a trip. Since the place was so cosy we stayed there for 2 nights.

From there we got to Te Anau, The last stop on the "Southern Scenic Route".

From here you can go to all the great walks. When we got here we asked in the information about the "Milford track", one of the most popular tracks in New Zealand. We were told that there is no place (In Israel people told us to book this track 6 month in advance) and the nearest available time is March.

Disappointed, we left the place, planning to do the Kepler Track instead. The Next day (Saturday) we went to book the kepler track, and like a Christmas present there was a cancellation for the Milford Track, so Izick just jump on this opportunity and book the track for Sunday (ONLY 500NZ$ For 4 nights!!! For a couple).

So our next adventure is the Milford track, 55 Kilometres in 4 days, keeps your fingers crossed for us.

From New Zealand -...

יום שני, דצמבר 04, 2006

New Zealand - How did we got our new car?

As you can guess from the title we are in New Zealand, actually, we are here for the last 7 days.
We didn't do much over the last days in means of traveling or trekking, but we had a break through; we have a car!!!

From Car Photos


You don't understand the excitement and the fear we feel right now at the same time.
Excitement, because we can finally start our trip, which is almost impossible without a vehicle.
Fear, well, it's a 91 Honda ascot (accord in israel), for the unnaked eye it's seems in a good condition, but the mechanic found a disturbing condition in the car's engine. The cam belt (timing belt) of the engine wasn't replaced when it should had, which was 100,000 kms ago.
For those who doesn't know much about cars, like me, a cam belt is a very important part of the engine, and if it's break down then the engine is quite ruined and should get an expensive treatment.

Finding this car wasn't so easy, mostly deciding that we will take the risk with the cam belt.
It all started with the weekend car sale newspaper. We got to New Zealand on Tuesday, first thing after settling down in our amazing home stay at Jonny & Ronit place, we bought the car's newspaper. we started calling to people, we had luck with only two cars that the owners were willing to come to us and show it to us.
The first one, was in great shape, but the owner didn't agree that we will take the car for a check. Retroactively, we found out that the guy was a car dealer (his being an Arabic should have hand him over).
The second car, was a Honda ascot (our currently car), its owner was a 17 years old girl (yes, the people here have a great life. I will try and tell you some more about it in my next posts).
The car had some crucial problem: the driver mirror and the breaks lamp were broken, the Wof (warranty of fitness - Test is Israel) was expired at the end of the month.
We got to an a agreement that she will fix all the car's problem and we will take the car to a mechanic check.
She a greed to all the conditions for the price of 1200$nz (~ 3600 NIS). This was agreed on Thursday.
The car went to the mechanic (Eran, an Israeli guy, a great guy that supported us all the way), but after the check we had a crisis . The mechanic told us about the condition of the cam belt, and we understood from him, that in case of a break down, due to the belt, it doesn't worth fixing the car.
Hearing this, on top of thinking about renting a car from the first day, since Jonny, our host, was siding on this, made us pretty confused.
At first, we gave up on this car and decided to wait to the Sunday backpackers car's sale. as you can get from my story it was a downfall.
After a week at the same place, we had to make a decision. Izick, on his part didn't want to make it, since, he was afraid I'll blame him if the car will break down, so I made the decision (It was the Honda, a Nissan Polsar for 2000$ nz or renting).
Today (Monday) the car went to the mechanic and came back with all of the problems, accept for the cam belt, fixed.

Now, we are glad to say we own a "new" car and happy to start our traveling in New Zealand.

From Car Photos


From Car Photos

יום שבת, דצמבר 02, 2006

Here are some picture from Hong Kong, to see more pictures press on each picture and more will be reveled:

Hong Kong City



Buddha




People




Disneyland




Food